Sur-Ron X & Segway x160/x260 Tech Info
|Weight / Motor External Diameter:
|7.0kg / 180mm
|Motor Axial Length:
|X Version Sine Wave
|240mm x 110mm x 50mm
|Eco and Sport
|MOTOR POWER SYSTEM
|Rated Power / Peak Power:
|3000W / 6000W
|Rated Torque / Peak Torque:
|10.2Nm / 39.00Nm
|Motor Shaft Output Torque @ 1000RPM:
|Rated Rotation Speed:
|Range of Efficiency (≥80):
|1.4Nm - 21.5Nm
|Primary Belt & 420 Drive Chain
|Belt Brand & Model:
|German Continental Brand, 8M CXA
|European Standard Horn
|60V 32A Lithium Battery with 176 Panasonic Cells
|Battery Life Time:
|500 Cycles (and then the capacity reduces step by step)
|Battery Charge Level:
|Integrated Battery LCD Display
|USB-2.1 A Single Socket
|LCD Digital Speedometer
|LED Headlight & Rear Light:
|Chassis - Swing Arm Material:
|No. 6061 T4 & T6 Aluminium Alloy
|Chassis Construction Method:
|Forged by 6000 Tons of Pressure
|Chassis Surface & Colour Processing:
|Rear Shock Absorber:
|DNM TR Suspension Link System
|Wheel Type & Size:
|Spoke Wheels, Front/Rear 19 x 1.4 Alloy Hubs
|Front/Rear 70/100-19 CST
|47 MPH 73KMH Varies depending upon load and gearing
|47kg plus battery
|100kg (15.75 Stone)
|Yes with kill switch
|1870mm x 780mm x 1040mm
|Min. Ground Clearance:
|84 to 88cm
On the Light-Bee this is a (very) low power mode (like 8-10mph) on the Light-Bee X (LBX) it's a street legal mode (if that applies to your state/country) and it's locked to 25-34mph
Now here is the trick, If your bikes was bought before May 2019 then:
Cutting this wire will limit both power AND speed depending on the model you have . In theory you could put a switch here when you go offroad but the idea is you simply cut the looped green/black wire.
If your Bike came with the factory street/slow mode, just look for the green/black wire under the black sheath and crimp or solder both ends together (or twist them together if you can't wait!)
If your bike was bought after May 2019 then: It's the opposite, cutting the green/black wire will make you bike fast again!
Then 2020-2021 came, I guess they got confused during Covid.. it's a mix of the 2 so if it's uncut, cut it. If it's uncut, join the 2!
On some of the later production runs this loop is not necessarily visible or is hidden far back behind the shrink. Please note that even if you do not see the loop at this part of the connector, you can see it at the connector where it is plugged into the controller. Below is this same wiring harness where it plugs directly into the controller. You can see the green/black wires that form a loop further up in the harness. In theory you could cut it or join it at this point as well, if you did not want to remove all the heatshrink to find where the wire is looped.
The ebrakes are a sensor that is installed by the brake lever via a screwset.
When installing it is VERY easy to rip out the ebrakes, which is the cause of most 'DOA' issues or intermittent working issues. Try fully unplugging to troubleshoot.
Below shows the sensor itself where it plugs into the lever, and the other side of it where it plugs into the white connector on the bike.
The hex bolt that the sensor enters sets the depth, and the set screw keeps it fixed in position.
Here we can see a closeup of how the sensor actually goes through the bolt.
Side angle and a view of one of the sensors fully removed.
How to unplug the brake cut off sensor connector
Open battery lid slide the breaker across to OFF and remove the battery.
Remove the 2 screws that hold in the ignition and usb.
Gently remove ignition to access the wiring harness for the brake cut offs.
Trace the wires from the front and rear brakes. These are the 2 wires marked with red arrows. Unplug them.
Gently remove the required brake cut off wiring and you are done.
(Black arrow is pointing to the head light plug)